RC Elétrico - o fórum de automodelismo elétrico!

Interessante seria você dizer a fonte deste aviso, pois o trava rosca usa-se principalmente em plástico, estranho esse seu aviso.

Boa noite Slasheiros...em relação a suspensão traseira "mole" da slash 4x4...juntando as opiniões...vai muito de como e aonde tu vai andar...se em chão duro e/ou pavimentado acho que pode ficar um pouco mole. Se em terrenos irregulares precisa endurecer mais um pouco. A suspensão deve amortecer as imperfeiçoes do terreno. Ajustes no amortecedor e/ou na mola. Com espaçadores ou com silicone. Se em terrenos com saltos, deve-se ter peças de reserva...não é? É inevitável... alguma coisa vai quebrar... Tampas de alumínio ajudam tb. Mas como diz o Anderson, um dia voa pedaço de amortecedor pra todo lado... mas isso tb faz parte da diversão. E o Éder tb lembra que não tem problema do chassi bater no chão...a não ser o aspecto visual. É uma "ajuda" que ele dá pra suspensão...E o melhor disso tudo é que essa conclusão eu tirei daqui do RC ELETRICO com a ajuda de todos vcs que tem um espírito coletivo muito legal de ser mantido. Ainda bem que existe este fórum! Já falei isso uma vez... E ainda assim ficou essa dúvida do trava rosca...mas, não dá pra esquecer que cada um tem que fazer suas próprias experiências e comentar aqui com todo mundo...Na loja me mandaram passar trava rosca em tudo...e até agora eu não passei em nada... Muito obrigado pela atenção e não esqueçam da utilidade do fórum...vcs estão de parabéns. Valeu, valeu. E boa diversão...com SLASH.

Alguem já teve, já viu ou pretende colocar um Diff central na Slash 4x4, igual ao da ultimate.
ou sabe explicar como ficaria o carro, por comparação com outros talvez..
tenho vontade colocar, mas fico pensando que talvez o freio fique muito na traseira, e piore a dirigibilidade.
Resumindo, o que mudaria na Slash instalando um diferencial central ??

Eu coloquei na e-revo e depois tirei... não gostei, pois queria o carro para diversão e não para pista.
A função do diff central é fazer com que o automodelo fique o maior tempo possível com as rodas em contato com a terra.
Com isso quanto eu empinava a e-revo ela não ganhava velocidade e os pneus dianteiros aceleravam muito, ficando totalmente esticados /\... podendo rasgar com mais facilidade.
Outra coisa que percebi é que a dianteira passou a cavar bem mais, fiquei inclusive com medo de disgaste prematuro dos pneus.
Resumindo, para pista deve valer a pena, para se divertir, nem tanto.

O meu SC8e tem diff central, é sinto a mesma coisa, só que bem menos que sentia na e-Revo, talvez trocando a viscosidade resolveria o problema da e-Revo.

Quanto a freiada, não tem problema o carro freia bem, e muito bem por sinal.

É mais ou menos o que eu pensei, vou ver se consigo encontrar pra comprar, mas num tá fácil axar.
e pegar tb uns três tipos de óleo de diff com densidades variadas, viscosidade tipo 1.000, 5.000 e 10.000, o que acham ??

via RCShortcourse.com from sgrid - thanks mp3ranger

From Steve Slayden on sgrid forum

The stock AND the Platinum Slash 4x4 trucks are both setup out of the
box geared toward super high bite surfaces like parking lots, asphalt
and stuff like that. That is why there is a level of push in the
chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them
will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of
streets and parking lots, this makes sense.

However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes
you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an
awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of
steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments.
Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on
the track for the first time. I'll post the rest of the setup
afterward.


Front end:
- outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
- shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
- camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
- diff: 10K to 15K

Rear end:
- sway bar: black
- diff: 5K to 7K

- install center diff (50K to 100K)

----------------


Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and
provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.

I'll post my complete setup below.

Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some
of it. This truck is SICK when setup


SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END

- Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump
steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.
- Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel
independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.
- Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise
to maintain a levelk of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes
the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable
throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE
steering.
- Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2
- Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out
to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
- Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the
same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer
than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a
linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
- Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
- Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will
also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the
inner hinge pin.
- Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)
- Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks
with bite.
- Bumpsteer: Flat: up

Front end note: If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole
for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the
aluminum accessory knuckles.

The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear)
adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn
in smooth and less aggressive.

SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END

- Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small
tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.
- Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
- Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro-
Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite
tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
- Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough
tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
- Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
- Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end
out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on
those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
- Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a
firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them
to work within a happy range.
- Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
- Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will
also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of
the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on
high speed smooth tracks.
- Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on
dusty loose tracks.
- Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks

SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way
around
Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue
Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have been
good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties
favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for
chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really
hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and
also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on
abrasive cleam surfaces.

Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522)
Battery: Max Amps 2S 8000
Battery Location: rear
ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan)

Gearing: Pinion: 14t/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks and
15t on larger tracks. Larger pinions also add improves control of the
truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear
or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.
Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer
acceleration and better turn in.

TX: Spektrum DX3R
RX: Spektrum SR 3100
Servo: Ace 1015
Body: Pro-Line SC Hardcore

Weight: My scale is broke, so with the battery, servo, heatsink, fan,
wheels/ tires and such added into the mix, then that is what is
weighs... LOL!!!

I'll get it on a scale soon. I'm also going to be playing with weight
placement and bias in the coming weeks. Keep in mind that lighter
weight (smaller capacity) packs and/ or changes to the motor system
and things like that will affect ride height and spring rate needs.